Blueberries demand acidic soil and are happy in well-irrigated sandy areas. The dozen or so UK growers are clustered around coastal areas such as Dorset, Norfolk and Suffolk.

The highly ornamental bushes start showing their dainty, delicately scented flowers in May. Mid-July sees the harvesting of early varieties such as Duke and Sparton. Bluecrop, a very productive mid-season variety, is hugely popular and is the main variety grown worldwide. The Chandler variety, which has the largest berries of the lot, is one of many late-ripening varieties that produce fruit throughout the months of August and September.

Irish blueberries

Demand for blueberries is growing in the UK and the Irish market is equally flourishing. A renowned Irish horticultural scientist, Dr Lamb, established a ten-acre blueberry farm in Co Offaly in 1965 after he recognised the commercial potential of growing American varieties in Irish bog-land. A colleague, John Seager, became involved in 1977 and took over the plantations in 1995. Derryvilla Blueberry Farm now comprises 20 acres and produces 70 per cent of Irish blueberries.

However, growing blueberries isn’t always as easy as it seems. “Derryvilla was Ireland’s first commercial blueberry operation.” Seager says, “There have been about half a dozen other attempts to establish other farms, but these have failed for a number of reasons. In addition to getting the soil right, you have to contend with weeds, bog fires, birds and other pests.”

So where is the demand coming from? “In recent years, popularity has surged for blueberries as people learn more about their health-giving properties,” Seager says. In fact, not only are blueberries a rich source of fibre, calcium and vitamins A and C, but US studies have shown these berries have more antioxidants than most other fruit and vegetables. Studies have also suggested that blueberries can help to strengthen eyesight and reduce cholesterol.
Buying blueberries

Home-grown blueberries are unbeatable for flavour.

Home-grown blueberries are unbeatable for flavour. Ruth Watson, co-owner of The Crown and Castle in Orford, Suffolk, knows a thing or two about blueberries. “I adore blueberries,” she says. “I have them every morning for breakfast with yoghurt. They’re now so popular over here, but I sometimes think I’m the only person who cares where they come from. Those grown in a colder climate have much more acidity, which gives the flavour a structure. British and Polish blueberries have a great tang, but hot-climate blueberries just taste sweet and flabby.”

John Seager agrees. “Sun-drenched southern European regions give better shelf life, but because the blueberries ripen more quickly, they don’t have the same flavour. Irish and UK blueberries all share that characteristic tang.”

Intensively grown Dutch blueberries, which are particularly rotund, can also have a disappointing flavour.

Buyer beware

Avoid shrivelled or squashed fruit and don’t be fooled by size: smaller specimens can be as tasty, if not tastier than the larger sort.
Cooking blueberries

* Blueberries release lots of juice when cooked, which makes them a versatile addition to a variety of dishes.

* Add the lush, dark berries to muffins, cheesecakes and pancakes or combine them with apple in a crumble, and with other soft fruit in a glorious summer pudding.
* A splash of water and a sprinkling of sugar will give you a delicious compote to serve with Greek-style yogurt or to ripple through whipped cream.

For something a little exotic, Sophie Grigson suggests lightly cooking a mixture of blueberries and other summer berries with red wine, rosemary and vanilla. Ruth Watson makes a blueberry, ground almond and polenta cake at the Crown and Castle, but she’s also fond of savoury salads if the blueberries are not insipidly sweet. “I like to throw a handful of them in with blue cheese, toasted almonds and ruby chard. A warm duck confit salad with blueberries, walnuts and a fruity vinegar is also very good.